www.ambushgunsmithing.com - Reloading Spec's and Data - Plantation, FL
Ambush GunSmithing - Keep it clean, keep it safe.
 
 
Reloading Spec's and Data for the Reloader and alike
 
 
This is one of several section of a guide for reloading your own ammo.
Section l
 
Rifle Cartridge Reloading Accuracy Guide:
Written by: Kim Lockhart.

Reloading
Hand loading, loading, re manufacturing, reloading ammunition for a rifle is serious business and should never be taken lightly! When done properly and precisely real gains in rifle accuracy can be achieved.
Accuracy
a.
Reloading manual loads and factory ammunition are loaded to fit and function in all guns of a certain caliber.
Manufacturers and factories do this with reasonable accuracy, but the ability to customize a cartridge to your firearm leads to excellent accuracy.
b. How you sort and assemble all the cartridge components have major consequences on harmonious ignition and accuracy.
c. As a reloader, you control many of the variables of a cartridge. You select the cartridge case, the primer, the powder, the powder charge, the bullet and most importantly the seating depth of the bullet. You customize the load for your firearm.
Note: This is a critical point to remember when you are adjusting and working up a load for your rifle, fact is, you are actually tuning and adjusting the barrel vibrations of your rifle.
This Guide
The purpose of this short brief guide is to point out the small things in reloading that the average reloader may not be aware of or their importance are overlooked by experienced reloaders.
While some of the things described in this guide offer only a small seemingly insignificant gain in accuracy it is a combination of all the little things that add up to a large gain in accurate handloaded rifle ammunition.
Section ll
Rifle Cartridge Powder / Load Density:
There are many rifle cartridge powders to choose from for the avid reloader today each of which vary in their burn rate. With all the powders that are available how does anyone know which powder to select for their particular rifle cartridge reloading.
Load Density
Load density is the determining factor in selecting powder for a particular rifle cartridge with 86% density just about ideal in most cases. Load density is the ratio between case capacity and actual powder charge. Most factory ammunition is loaded with a density of 80% - 90% of the cartridge case capacity.
1. You should never exceed 95% load density.
a. Primers need room to flame through the powder charge which gives uniform velocity and pressure.
b. Cases that are full or compressed charges of powder will accelerate barrel wear in the rifle barrels throat area.
2. You should never drop to far below 80% load density.
A known condition named detonation (excess pressure spike) can occur with cases that are not signifacantly filled with powder. Some years ago the U.S. Ordnance and DuPont ballistics laboratories were able to duplicate the strange phenomenon called detonation and they had determined that excess air space in the cartridge case to be the trigger for detonation.
How to figure load density.
Powder charge weight divided by case capacity equals load density.
Example: Powder charge 40 grains (divided by) Case capacity 50 grains = .8 or 80% load density.
Case Capacity
Case capacity is the amount of volume inside a cartridge case that is available for the powder to fill.
How To Measure Case Capacity.
Measuring case capacity is actually quite simple. Once you have established your bullet seating depth in the bullet section of this guide.
1. Weigh one case with bullet seated to proper depth without powder or primer.
2. Now fill the case with water through the primer hole using a hyperdermic needle and weigh again.
3. Now subtract dry weight from the water weight and this will give you your case capacity.
Example:
470 grains = water weight with bullet.
- 420 grains = empty weight with bullet.
50 grain = case capacity.
Once you have your case capacity using your reloading manual select powders that fall into your load density range.
In the above example of a 50 grain capacity your range would be.
a. 50 grain capacity x 80% load density = 40 grains of powder.
b. 50 grain capacity x 90% load density = 45 grains of powder.
Section lll
Rifle Cartridge Case / Brass:
The cartridge case is the one component in reloading that is so generally passed over when looking for accuracy, when in fact it is one of the most critical for accuracy. It is the cartridge case that has to hold the bullet in perfect alignment with the rifles bore, any deviation here and accuracy will suffer.
The first rule when it comes to cartridge cases is never mix cases from different manufacturers or even same manufacturer with different lot numbers or batch run. If you really are looking for accuracy loads, bulk brass is cheap so when ordering order a minimum of 100 cartridge cases before standardizing cases.
Weighing Cartridge Cases.
1.
The first step in standardizing cartridge cases is weighing each and every one and then seperating them by weight, seperate in 1 grain increments or less.
a. If there is even 1/10 of a grain difference in weight between the cases that means there is a difference in the internal dimension and strength structure of the case. This will change stress expansion areas of the case which in turn will change the way the cartridge headspaces in the rifle chamber when it is fired.
Each time the cases are loaded and fired the heavier cases will stretch less between the cases shoulder and head than the lighter ones. Evidence of this can be noted by measuring case length after firing the cartridges, they simply do not stretch the same and this does affect accuracy.
b. The cartridge case capacity is directly affected which is nothing more than the volume of the cartridge case but of which in turn affects velocity hi-lo spread and will affect bullet impact or accuracy.
Section lll
Electronic Scale
RCBS Powder Pro Digital Scale With a 1500 grain capacity, you can weigh powder, bullets and
cartridge cases with complete accuracy to within 0.1 of a grain quickly.
Case Neck Thickness
2.
The one case dimension that really helps shrink group spread is uniform neck thickness. Ideally, necks shouldn't vary more than .0015" in thickness. Before measuring, bulk brass should be run through with an expander ball to remove dents (resizing die with expander ball).
All cartridge cases should be checked for this condition after every third loading because brass flows forward and will thicken the cartridge cases neck.
Case Neck Thickness Gauge
How the complete cartridge fits in the chamber and throat of the rifle barrel directly affects accuracy!
A quick, way to determine several important case and cartridge dimensions is using the
RCBS CaseMaster® gauging tool,
it measures
case neck concentricity,
case neck thickness,
case length and
bullet run-out.
Listed May 1,2014
The poor mans bullet seating gauge.....
With a new rifle comes a new load workup, and more details on that process later.

What I want to discuss here is a way to determine the distance from the camber mouth to the beginning of the lands, or what is commonly termed the 'Throat'. For hand loaders seeking maximum accuracy, this can be an important measurement.

The idea is the distance a bullet moves forward from the case before it engages the rifling can greatly effect accuracy. This I know to be true. If the handloader can find the 'sweet spot' for his best load, usually something like .005-.010" from the lands, then peak accuracy is one step closer.

To measure that distance, special tools can be purchased that are designed to perfectly gauge the 'freebore', or distance from case mouth to rifling. Being a frugal (read that as CHEAP) old fart, Carteach prefers using a little ingenuity to achieve the same results.
Here, we see a full length sized un-primed 30-06 case that's been sliced with a diamond wheel on a Foredom tool. Slicing the case almost to the shoulder seems to work well, although I've seen good results from slicing a little farther, about halfway down the shoulder.

The idea is to have the case neck pressure relieved just enough that a bullet will slide into the case, but still be tight enough it won't shift or fall out on it's own.

What we'll do is hand start a bullet into the case mouth, and then carefully... but firmly.... chamber the round in the rifle. It's important the bolt not be slammed home, but be moved slowly into full battery. Treating the operation roughly will result in false readings.

In a bolt action, the bolt must be fully cammed into lockup. With a pump or semi-auto, assuring full lockup is a little more difficult. Since most rifles will not fire out of battery, if a dry fire gives a satisfying click, the bolt is usually closed all the way. It's critical beyond my ability to stress.... UN-PRIMED cases are used for this! If a live primer is in the case, it can propel the bullet far enough into the bore to create a deadly dangerous situation.... a blocked bore.
Carefully open the bolt, and draw it backwards slowly. Try not to let the ejector kick the case out, but preferably lay the rifle over and drop the case into your hand. The bullet should have contacted the rifling, and been pushed back into the sliced case neck.... where it should have stayed.

There is something to be said for repeating the entire trial multiple times. If the final measurement is the same every time, it's probably being done right.

Regarding the resulting measurement..... how is it done? Well, a simple vernier caliper will give a total overall length for that case, with that particular bullet. You DO own a good vernier caliper, RIGHT?

Using that measurement, the overall cartridge length can be set up with the desired bullet-to-land spacing. Simply set the seating die to seat the bullet at maximum length, and dial in the a few more thousandths depth at a time till you reach the length you wish to try.

It's rather important not to set the bullet to seat right at the rifling with a field rifle. If done so, a loaded round in the chamber may have it's bullet pulled simply by camming the bolt open... leaving the bullet stuck in the rifling. Bench rest shooters often seat right at the lands, or a few thousandths in, but that's a different game.

Now, back to measuring the overall length of the 'gauge' cartridge we just invented..... it must be understood..... if measured as found, the resulting length will be for THAT bullet design, and no other. Different bullets come with different ogives, or curves, and will impact the rifling at different spots along their length. A spitzer bullet will not hit the lands at the same place a round nose bullet does.
The answer here is a widget called a 'comparator'. It's a big hex-nut looking affair with six precise holes drilled in it that mimic bore dimensions.

Including a comparator to the measuring process gives a number that can be used with any bullet the handloader wishes, as long as the comparator is always used in measuring overall length during seating die setup.

In a field rifle... hunting or match.... there is another factor that must be considered. In the case of The Fat Man's 30-06 Mauser... it overrides the accuracy potential of seating to the lands. That factor is magazine length.

On a rifle with a long throat (as I have here), the longest cartridge that will fit the magazine will not even come close to the rifling when chambered. That's just the way it is, and must be accepted as a limiting factor. In the case of this rifle, it effectively nullifies the idea of seating to the lands, as this is clearly a hunting rifle and the magazine will be used.

High power match shooters often have two completely different overall cartridge length loadings in play in the same match.... a short one that fits the magazine for rapid fire, and a longer one that will be loaded singly for the slow fire stages.

Okay....THIS INFORMATION COME’S FROM the Carteach cheat for measuring case mouth-to-rifling. Any questions or concerns?
 
 
HOW TO CHECK HEADSPACE
 
Here’s how to use the tool needed to check your rifle’s chamber dimensions.
By Patrick Sweeney

A three-tool set of Go, No-Go gauges represents an easy way to check the headspace of your favorite rifle.
 
To many shooters, headspace is a mysterious term, one to which many evils can be attributed. I’ve had shooters come in to my shop expressing the belief that their rifles had too much, not enough, none at all and even the wrong kind–I’m still not sure what that guy was talking about. In simple terms, headspace is the dimension of the chamber of your rifle, the gap between the face of the bolt and the stopping surface for the cartridge. To be precise, it is the distance between the face of the bolt and the datum line, which is a circle of stated diameter, along the slope of the shoulder of the cartridge.
 
On a rimless cartridge such as the .308, the stopping surface is the shoulder. On a rimmed cartridge like the .30-30 or .303 British, the headspace is the gap for the rim. On a belted magnum, headspace is the gap for the belt. Since not every rifle or cartridge can be made to exact dimensions, with perhaps the best custom rifles being one exception, headspace is deemed to be correct if it is within a certain range.
 
The specs for a cartridge involve a minimum chamber/maximum cartridge drawing. Headspace for a cartridge is the minimum dimension of the chamber plus .006. If your rifle’s chamber is not cut within this range, some extreme situations can be dangerous. If your chamber is below minimum, and thus too small, you can have problems with bolt function. The cartridge, being crammed into the short chamber, prestresses the locking lugs of the bolt. Once fired, the bolt handle may be hard to lift. Or, in a self-loading rifle, empties do not eject far, or at all. The extra force can wear the engagement surfaces of the locking lugs, or even wedge the action closed and locked.
 
A chamber that is over maximum may not show any signs of trouble at all. Unless you reload, you may never know it. A rifle with excess headspace can eat reloaded brass quickly. Upon firing, the expansion of the case blows the shoulder forward. When you resize and set the shoulder back, you set up the excess headspace condition again. The stretched brass will eventually crack and break. A prime example of this is the .303 British. It headspaces on the rim, and the shoulder is left with large amounts of space for reliable function under adverse conditions (I’ve seen rifles with more than .050 extra). I’ve never been able to get more than three firings from reloaded .303 brass before the case separates. You can have the same problem with belted magnums if the belt headspace is correct but shoulder space is excessive.
 
There is an easy way to measure the headspace of your rifle–even if just for peace of mind. You’ll need headspace gauges, precision-ground cartridge-shaped measuring tools. There are three kinds: three-gauge sets, multi-gauge sets and micrometer gauges.

Multi-tool headspace gauges are generally used when building rifles with exact tolerances, such as beanfield rifles or benchrest models.
The three-gauge set consists of “Go,” “No Go” and “Field” gauges. The Go gauge is the one which corresponds to minimum chamber dimensions, and your bolt should close on it. The No-Go gauge corresponds to maximum dimensions, and your bolt should not close on it. The Field gauge measures the largest safe dimensions, and any bolt that closes on it should be immediately tended to.
 
Multi-gauge sets are used by gunsmiths who work on super-accurate rifles for match or long-range shooting. A multi-gauge set will have a precision-ground gauge at each .001-inch interval along the headspace spread. Using such a set, a gunsmith can ream a chamber to an exact specification. The micrometer gauge is a chamber-shaped adjustable measuring tool not commonly seen outside of factories or arsenals.
 
To measure headspace with these gauges, first strip and clean your rifle. Chamber and bolt must be squeaky-clean. Then disassemble the bolt; if your rifle has a spring-loaded ejector, you must remove it. Luckily, they are usually held in place by a cross pin which can be drifted out. If the extractor can be removed easily, do so. The extractor on a Remington 742, for example, is staked in place and cannot be removed. But get the ejector out. On a bolt-action rifle, remove the cocking assembly. You do not want the reading to be muddled by the spring pressure of the striker.

When using headspace gauges, the bolt must be completely disassembled, including the cocking assembly, where applicable, and the chamber should be as clean as possible.
Slide the Go gauge into the chamber, and gently close the bolt. On a bolt-action rifle you should be able to close the bolt handle without feeling any resistance. On a multi-lugged bolt, like the AR-15, you should be able to turn the bolt by hand without resistance against the locking lugs. If there is resistance, or the bolt handle stops before it is completely closed, headspace is under minimum dimensions and must be opened up. For that you’ll need a finish chambering reamer, which is a subject to be covered in a future column.
 
Next, remove the Go gauge and slide the No-Go gauge in place. Again, attempt to gently close the bolt. You should not be able to do so. Do not try to force the bolt–use only fingertip pressure. The bolt handle will usually stop halfway down. On an AR-15, you might be able to catch the leading edge of the locking lugs under the shoulders of the barrel extension. If you had not removed the ejector, you could not feel the resistance, as the force needed to overcome the ejector spring would be too great for the delicate feel needed.
 
If the bolt closes on a No-Go gauge, you’ll need a Field gauge to check it further. If the bolt closes on the No-Go but not the Field, you simply have a rifle that is going to be hard on brass. Be careful that you don’t set the shoulder back while resizing, and you can get many years of use out of both rifle and brass.
 
If the chamber swallows a Field gauge, you’ll have to have a professional look at it. Most likely, you’ll have to have the barrel set back and rechambered by someone with riflesmithing experience.
 
And the rimmed and belted magnum rifles? Dealing with the rim or belt and the shoulder at t
he same time is a reloading problem, involving expanding the neck and resizing it down to create a false shoulder, then fire-forming the brass to your chamber. On a .303, I wouldn’t waste time. When I tried it, I got one extra loading out of my brass. On a .300 magnum, it is definitely worth the extra effort.
Section l-lll - Rifle Cartridge Reloading
Specifications: 
 
Rifle Cartridge Reloading Guide:
Handloading, loading, remanufacturing, reloading ammunition for a rifle is serious business and should never be taken lightly! When done properly and precisely real gains in rifle accuracy can be achieved. (Accuracy Guide)
Using the Right Bullet for the Right Barrel Diameter By Mark Trope & R. Ted Jeo The world of mil-surp collecting is like the proverbial box of chocolates, “You never know what you’re going to get”.
A Little Bit about Cleaning At a gun show the first thing one normally does is takeout his bore light and peer down the bore of a rifle. Lift here is a copious amount of rust, or the rifling & crown is so worn it’s all but non-existent, the rifle goes back on the table and one moves on. However, let’s say the rifling is strong, with sharp lands, which follow out to the crown. The rifling may be a tad dark, although that in of itself means little. The crown is in good shape, so far so good. The rest of the rifle is clean, the safety works, the trigger pull crisp, and the stock sound. Negotiation sense and soon a happy buyer is on his way with a new treasure. A responsible owner will field strip a new acquisition and give it a complete cleaning prior to shooting it. The barrel requires special attention. Most mil-surp barrel shave amazing amounts of gliding metal & coupro-nickeljacket material and powder fouling. These materials are usually built up in alternating layers on both lands and grooves. A quick brushing with standard solvent will not get it anywhere near clean! Stronger medicine is needed. One can either use a commercial or homemade electro-chemical cleaning device. These devices work well, and take out a lot of the “elbow grease” required for cleaning. Strong chemicals designed to aggressively dissolve fouling are another option. Products like Sweets 7.62 or BarnesCR10 work extremely well. Their instructions must be followed to the letter, and repeat treatments may be required. However, eventually they will get under the accumulated gunk in a barrel. One other option remains, mechanical cutting by means of a product like J-B Non Embedding Bore Cleaner. This last option requires a lot of handwork, and, if not done correctly can excessively wear rifling in that all important crown area. Be forewarned, some milsurp barrels, even after all the jacket and powder fouling is removed will still emit tiny black specs when soaked in standard solvent after arange session. Smokeless barrel steel from 50+ yearsago and older was mostly chrome moly. The steel hasmany impurities in it from the original manufacturingprocess of the time. These impurities will leach outduring the cleaning processes once the balance ofjacket and powder fouling is removed. I have a TurkMauser, which is a very good shooter, but it emits blackspecs every cleaning. So, some barrels will never bespotlessly clean! Very old black powder rifles have soft,mild steel barrels which should only be used with castlead bullets, jacketed bullets will wear them out in shortorder.Enough about cleaning and such for now. Realize thatthe technique described below will start out with asclean a barrel as you can get.Why We Need to Know the REAL Diameter? Now let’s address an issue that many mil-surp RELOADERS run across once they have cleaned uptheir new toy and are looking to reload for their rifle. You go to look for bullets and you pick up 8mm (.323”) bullets for that Mauser. This one is pretty common andeasy to find. Okay, I am sure that many of you realize that 8mm Mauser is actually 7.92mm. But, how about that 6.5mm Carcano? “Normal” 6.5mm is .264 inches.The 6.5mm Carcano is actually .268 inches. Whathappens when you fire .264” bullets in a Carcano? Well,some people have reported anything from good to downright terrible shots. (See the “A Carcano Comes a Knocking” article). The No. 4 Enfield is another rifle that should be .303” (right?). Many of the barrels are anywhere from .310 to .314 in diameter. One more for you. The M95 Steyr straight pull action rifle says “8mm”.Is it 7.92mm like the Mauser? Nope. It actually runs about .329” which is 8.36mm. There are more examplesout there, including some Mosin-Nagants whose7.62mm (.308”) barrels may range from .307” on the small side to .313” on the large side . The biggest issue of using the wrong bullet (too small) is a loss of accuracy.DO NOT EVER USE TOO LARGE A BULLET. This can result in high pressures and could result in injury, to you and your weapon.
How Can Lead Affect Your HealthThe effects of Lead are the same whether it enters the body through breathing or swallowing. The main target for Lead toxicity isthe nervous system, both in adults and in children. Long-termexposure of adults to Lead at work has resulted in decreasedperformance in some tests that measure functions of the nervoussystem. Lead exposure may also cause weakness in fingers, wrists,or ankles. Some studies in humans have suggested that Leadexposure may increase blood pressure, but the evidence isinconclusive. Lead exposure may also cause anemia, a low numberof blood cells. The connection between the occurrence of some ofthese effects (e.g., increased blood pressure, altered function of thenervous system) and low levels of exposure to Lead is not certain.At high levels of exposure, Lead can severely damage the brain andkidneys in adults or children. In pregnant women, high levels ofexposure to Lead may cause miscarriage. High-level exposure inmen can damage the organs responsible for sperm production.Surplusrifle.com's Site DisclaimerFigure 1. Three rifles that have “weird” bore sizes. From top,M95 Steyr, No. 4 Enfield, and M38 Carcano.So, why do we see these odd sizes that fit the standard? Well, one of the reasons is that many milsurp rifles were made with rather casual tolerances inthe chamber and barrel. For military purposes this is agood thing. Ammo may have to be fired in the frigidwinter or very hot summer, and still produce safe pressures. Some ammo was designated as dual purpose, having to serve both the rifleman and light machine gunner. Making a rifle chamber and barrel on the large side of the specifications kept pressures downand make it easy to chamber a round.The “How To” of Slugging a BarrelHow do we find the best size bullet for a barrel? The answer is, Slug, Measure & Match. Best of all, this process is quite simple and inexpensive (of course!).The materials are available from a hardware store, ahome center, or even a discount department store and fishing tackle supplier (as shown in Figure 2).Figure 2. Nothing very special with the items that you need. Afew dowels, a few lead sinkers. Total cost (assuming you havethe tools) less than $5 from your local hardware and sportinggoods store.Materials1) A couple of hardwood dowels just under bore diameter. It must be long enough to go completely through the barrel, with at least 4 inches sticking outwhen the bolt is closed. A 1/8” diameter dowel can beused for 6.5mm and a ¼” diameter dowel can be usedfor 6.5mm and up.2) A lead egg shaped fishing sinker slightly over groove diameter. 1/8” diameter (size #10) can be used for 6.5mm and ¼” diameter (size #9) for 7.62mm and up sized barrels.3) Gun grease (Shooters Choice High Tech Grease as an example) and/or gun oil.4) Old soft towel.Tools1) A micrometer will be required to measure our test slug. Most micrometers are accurate to .0001”. A calipercan be used, however none are accurate to morethen .001”.2) A soft faced plastic or rawhide mallet. NOTE: a small metal tack hammer MAY be needed at times,depending on how pure your lead sinker is.
3) Tape measure and marker. Start out by clamping the rifle firmly in a verticalposition. Realize that you will be literally pounding oneend of the rifle, so make sure it is very secure. Place thetowel around the base of the rifle to catch the leadsinker. You want to avoid dropping the slug as itdeforms easily (as shown in Figure 3).Figure 3. Clamp your rifle in really good. The rifle being usedas example is a M95 Steyr carbine in 8mm (or is it really?)Note, dowel is sticking out barrel, ready to be marked and cut.With the bolt closed slide the dowel rod into the barrel until it hits the bolt face. Now with the tape measure decide where to cut the dowel so its end is about 4 to 5inches into the barrel. Remove the dowel and make thatcut. Take a second dowel (usually around 36” long and cut it into 6” lengths. If you were to use a 1/8” or ¼”diameter dowel in very long sections, it would surely break. By using it in short non flexing 6 inch pieces it isless likely to break) (as shown in Figure 4).Figure 4. Using a mini miter box and saw is not required, butnice straight edges on the dowel are nice.We have already cleaned our barrel clean as per the previous discussion. Give interior of the barrel a lightcoat of gun oil. This will help our sinker slide out. Slide the long piece of dowel rod back into the barrel from the breach, then replace & close the bolt. Using the grease,cover the sinker with a generous amount. Also add a bitaround the inside of the muzzle. Take the soft leadsinker and tap it into the muzzle with the mallet.Depending on the purity of your lead sinker, you mayhave to CAREFULLY use a metal tack hammer to getthe sinker going into the barrel. Keep going until it isflush with the muzzle. If you are using the metal tackhammer, STOP using it before you hit the barrel itself. Ihave switched to using a large brass punch to carefully finish off the last few millimeters of the sinker going into the barrel. (as shown in Figures 5, 6, and 7)Figure 5. Liberally grease around the lead sinker to help it go down the barrel. Lightly oiling inside the barrel will help also. Figure 6. Starting the lead sinker. Try to start it out straight. Note the grease around the base. Figure 7. The sinker is nearly all the way into the barrel. Note the shaving of lead at the muzzle. Seeing this assures that we have a snug fit. From this point on, use small cut sections of wood down to move the slug down the barrel. A small ring of lead shearing off is what we want to see. This tells us it is going tight into the barrel. Take a short piece of dowel rod and use it to drive the lead sinker until it hits the long dowel. Tap it hard until it has fully set into the grooves of the barrel. Open and remove the bolt and remove the long dowel. If it sticks a bit tap the short dowel and the long one should slide out. Using the short sections of dowel, gradually tap the lead slug through the length of the barrel, adding another dowel section as you get near the muzzle. Eventually, the slug will drop out of the chamber and (hopefully) be caught on your soft towel (as shown in Figure 8).
Figure 8. Note the slug resting on the cloth. Also note the short sections of wood dowels. Gently clean off the slug and examine it. You should see grooves and lands that correspond to the barrel’s rifling. Using your micrometer or caliper, you should measure land to land (that is ridge to ridge) to give the correct diameter of the barrel. If you measure groove to groove, this will be too small. With the correct diameter known, store the slug in something that will keep it from being damaged and write down the groove and land diameters, as well as rifle identification. You should only have to do this once, however, you could do it two or three times and make sure all measurements are repeatable. (Figure 9, 10, 11, 12)
Figure 9. An up close of the slug. Note the grooves in the Collecting and Shooting the Mil-Surp Rifle - Slug, Measure, & Match: Using the Right Bullet for the Rifling...
Figure 12. The slugs are stored in labeled gem stone padded containers. Bullet Select Delete repeated word you desire to use jacketed bullets then log onto the various bullet makers sites and select a bullet, which matches exactly with your barrels groove diameter. Inthe case of the 6.5mm Carcano (actually .268”) Hornady has recently come out with specific jacketed bullets inexactly this diameter. Graf and Sons carries them.However, let’s say your rifle has a odd size barrel, forwhich no bullet is made, or the barrel has seen considerable use and is worn a bit larger then nominal.Suppose your rifle is a black powder only rifle, which requires lead bullets? The answer is cast bullets. Many companies sell pre-cast bullets in various diameters and weights. You may need to get a bullet sizing set up tocorrectly size a cast bullet to the actual size you want.An example would be that you buy .338” bullets and size them down (and lube them) to .329” for the M95 Steyr. Some companies provide correctly size/lubed bullets in all sorts of diameters, not requiring any additional sizing.A second choice would be to take up a little side hobbyand cast your own bullets. Lee Precision has economical equipment which allows you to castexcellent bullets (see recent casting articles on thiswebsite).In addition, Lee has recently added a universal flair dieto their line up. When seating a cast bullet it isnecessary to gently flair the case mouth or lead will beshaved. It comes with interchangeable plugs; so, one die can be used for all calibers. The plugs have a“floating” feature, which allows the plug to self-center inthe case mouth. Other companies make flair dies,however they are caliber specific; one is required foreach family of bore sizes, and they are rigid.Using the procedures we have outlined here any one can learn in a few minutes if they are using the correctsize bullets for their individual barrel. Great increases in accuracy can result from this simple, inexpensive process.
 
 
 
This mounth how to get your C & R  Lincense.
 
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Winchester 70 pre 64 Manufacters serial numbers.
 
 
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